Manual Getting started
Embroidery basics: stabiliser, hoop, thread and bobbin
The four physical things every sew-out needs, explained from scratch.
An embroidery machine does not move the cloth like a normal sewing machine. It holds the cloth still in a frame and moves the frame under the needle. These four things make that work.
Stabiliser#
Stabiliser is a sheet of backing you put under the cloth. Think of it as the paper you draw on when you do not want a thin page to crumple. Thousands of stitches pull on cloth. Without a backing, the cloth bunches up around the design.
- Cut-away stays in the garment. You trim around the design. It is the safe choice for stretchy cloth and anything you wash a lot.
- Tear-away rips off after sewing. It suits stable, tightly woven cloth.
- No-show mesh is a soft cut-away for thin cloth like a shirt or a suit lining. It does not scratch and does not show through.
- Water-soluble topping sits on top of fluffy cloth like towel, so stitches do not sink into the pile.
The Sewing setup card tells you which type fits your fabric. Read Sewing setup presets.
Hoop#
The hoop is the frame that holds cloth and stabiliser flat and tight. It has two rings. You press the cloth between them and tighten a screw.
The machine can only sew inside the hoop. Every hoop has a sewing area, a little smaller than the frame itself. Lilo draws that area on the canvas and warns you if your design sticks out. Read Sizing and hoops.
A good hoop job feels like a drum. The cloth is tight but not stretched. Stretched cloth springs back after sewing and puckers the design.
Thread#
The top thread is what you see. Most embroidery uses 40 wt thread. The "wt" number says how thin it is. A bigger number means thinner thread. 60 wt is finer. It lets you sew smaller, crisper details, like tiny letters.
Thread comes in brands and each brand has its own colour codes. Lilo knows many. Read Thread brands and matching.
Bobbin#
The bobbin is a small spool of thread under the needle plate. It makes the back of the stitch. Embroidery bobbin thread is usually thinner and often white or black.
A good sew-out shows only a little bobbin thread on the front. If you see a lot of bobbin thread, the top thread is too tight. Read Fixing sew-out problems.
Needle#
Use a fresh needle. A dull needle shreds thread and punches holes. Lilo's Sewing setup suggests a size for your fabric and thread, like 75/11 for most cloth or 70/10 for a thin lining.