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Manual Reference

Glossary

Plain-word meanings for every embroidery and Lilo term, from appliqué to zig-zag.

Words are in alphabetical order. A word in bold inside a meaning has its own entry.

A to C#

  • Appliqué. A patch of cloth stitched onto a garment. An E-stitch edge is often used to hold it.
  • Aspect ratio. The relationship between width and height. Locking it keeps a shape from squashing.
  • Auto digitize. Lilo turns a picture into stitches in one step. Read Turn a picture into stitches.
  • Backing. Another word for stabiliser.
  • Bean stitch. Another name for a triple run.
  • Birdnesting. A tangle of thread under the cloth that jams the machine.
  • Bobbin. The small spool under the needle plate that makes the back of the stitch.
  • Colour block. A run of shapes sewn in one thread, with no thread change inside.
  • Colour change. A stop to swap the top thread for the next colour.
  • Column. A satin stripe. Its width is the distance across it.
  • Cut-away. A stabiliser you trim around the design. It stays in the garment.

D to H#

  • Density. How close stitches sit together. A smaller gap means higher density.
  • Digitizing. Turning a picture or drawing into stitch instructions.
  • DST. A file format used by many commercial machines. It does not keep thread colours.
  • E-stitch. A comb-shaped run stitch.
  • Edge outline. A running line sewn round the edge of a fill.
  • Fill. Rows of stitches covering an area.
  • Font (embroidery). Letters drawn to be sewn, with a height range where they sew well.
  • Format. The kind of file a machine reads, like PES or DST.
  • Gradient. A fade in a fill, made by changing row spacing across the shape.
  • Hoop. The frame that holds cloth tight while it is sewn.

I to O#

  • Inset. How far inside the edge an underlay stops, so it stays hidden.
  • Jump. Thread that travels from one point to another without sewing.
  • Knit. Stretchy cloth. It needs more pull compensation and a firm stabiliser.
  • Lilo Link. The part of Lilo that sends designs to a machine over Wi-Fi.
  • Lock stitches. Tiny stitches at the start and end of a run that stop it unravelling. Also called tie-in and tie-off.
  • Manual stitch. A stitch placed exactly where you click.
  • Monogram. Initials sewn as a mark, like "JK" inside a jacket.
  • Motif. A small shape repeated across a fill.
  • Needle drop. One point where the needle goes through the cloth. Also called a stitch.
  • Needle size. The thickness of the needle, like 75/11.
  • Origin. The point in the design that sits at the centre of the hoop.

P to S#

  • PES. The file format of Brother and Baby Lock machines. It keeps thread colours.
  • Pile. The fluffy surface of cloth like towel or velvet.
  • Pull compensation. Making a shape slightly bigger to allow for the thread pulling cloth inward.
  • Pucker. Ripples in the cloth around a design.
  • Realistic view. A preview that draws each stitch as shaded thread.
  • Registration. How well one shape lines up with its neighbour.
  • Row spacing. The gap between rows of stitches in a fill.
  • Run. A stitch that follows a line.
  • Satin. Side-to-side stitches in a column. Smooth and shiny.
  • Sew-out. The real stitched result.
  • Sewing area. The part of the hoop the machine can sew.
  • Stabiliser. A sheet under the cloth that stops it moving and bunching.
  • Stitch length. The distance between two needle drops.
  • Split satin. A wide satin column divided so no stitch is too long.

T to Z#

  • Tatami. The common name for a standard fill with offset rows.
  • Tear-away. A stabiliser that rips off after sewing.
  • Thread weight. How thin thread is. 40 wt is standard. 60 wt is finer.
  • Tie-in and tie-off. See lock stitches.
  • Tolerance. How far a stitch may stray from the line you drew.
  • Topping. A thin water-soluble sheet on top of fluffy cloth.
  • Trim. A cut of the thread between shapes, done by the machine.
  • Underlay. Light stitches sewn first, under the top stitches.
  • Underpath. Travelling through a fill under the stitches instead of jumping.
  • Zig-zag underlay. An underlay that goes back and forth across a column.

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